PORT CHINE COMPLETE, READY FOR FIRST "PLANK" OF SEASON

Will be followed by another layer. Chine line will definitely be tuned a little. The way I do that, at this point (after having done the best I could projecting the frames with a straight edge), is to clamp the next sheet of plywood in place, and then clamping a batten on the bottomside of the chine, and tracing a smooth curve on the plywood, to be cut. If any irregularities exist in the chine they are trimmed, or filled with epoxy. This is not necessarily the "how to dos of how to dos"", but it works well for me.
The three plywood "drip boards" were for the winter, to keep water off the frames. They will be removed.
You can also get a good look at the new bulwark, which I am really happy with. It was a LOT of work, but is making up for it by making planking much faster and stronger. The outside of the bulwark will be sanded before planking. The inside of the bulwark, like the rest of the topsides, is completely redecked, rebeamed, and fiberglassed with 10 oz. cloth and three layers of epoxy. Did not have to worry much this winter. In this photo there is one, possibly two, of the original frame gussets left.
Also, for those new owners unfamiliar with basic Newporter nomenclature that Clyde has set forth, you can start at the top of the bulwark, go down five layers, and there is the deck, and under the deck is the outer clamp. The block up front with the dado cut in it is where the aft chainplate for the mainmast goes. The dado has yet to be cut in the outer clamp, deck, and bulwark.