ESSENTIAL IDEAL WINDLASS INFORMATION

ESSENTIAL IDEAL WINDLASS INFORMATION
First of all, let me say I called the Ideal Windlass Company in Rhode Island three times, talked to their nice secretary a couple of times, and emailed them twice. They never responded with a price list or any information. Their web site has some information, and has improved from the mess it was, but the link to prices still does not come up. Their site is worth visiting for pics and info.
So after a month of trying to get parts and information I gave up on them - and then things started happening. The first break thru was an alternator/starter man (Chuck, a member of N40T) recognized the motor casing as being from an old (60 - 70's) PRESTOLITE motor. Prestolite had a winch division that they later sold, so the motor would not necessarily be classified as a "starter motor". And the good news is he had an extra motor casing to replace my totally corroded casing.
The next major break thru was to locate WESTERN MOTORS SERVICES, ROCKFORD IL, 61104, ( 815) 986-2214 . "WMS" was toatally knowledgeable about the motor and its application to the windlass. Janet, their secretary, was terrific. If she did not know something she would find it out. If she said she was going to return a call, she returned it. This is one of those "heritage" companies that still runs right. Much of the rest of this discussion was made possible by their priceless experience. They identified the motor on my Ideal Windlass CHWSO as a WM 7003. While it was my intent to rebuild my motor for experience, WMS also has the complete motors for an excellent price.
A good place to start is this photographic collage of some motor components and the early instuctions that came with my boat. You can download the collage and blow any of the instruction sheets shown up to readable size.
The parts, starting in the upper left: (A) a solenoid, which is a relay under the deck by the windlass, activated by a deck foot switch to allow the main current to flow. The circuit should definitely be fused (instructions say 200 amp fuse for 12 volt system with No. 0 or 00 wire). (B) the field coils and brush assembly (Information and discussion with different photo) (C) positive terminal (and some other miscellaneous screws) . The positive terminal comes out of the grounded motor casing, and therefore has a thick insulating washer between it and the casing to keep it from grounding out. In the whole motor clearance is tight and assembly must be done carefully to avoid short circuits. (D1) and (D2) are arrows drawing your attention to the fact that the pole shoe leading edges are assemetrical - that is one side is longer than the other - which by their orientation in the casing determines which way the motor turns (see later photo). (E) is an armature end bushing. If it wears out the armmature wobbles and starts filling the motor with metallic particles which indicate the problem. They might also ground out the motor by providing a path positive parts to the grounded casing.To the left are brush springs. When reassembling the motor the brush spring (brush end) is grasped with needle nose pliers, pulled back, and rotated up and to the side so it is no longer forcing the brush into position (which would block the armmature).

go to next photo "FIELD COILS AND BRUSH ASSEMBLY"