ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NOTES 2: FUSE BLOCK COMPARISON, WIRE CONNECTORS, AND A PLACE FOR GREAT PRICES AND SERVICE

[bob mitchell]

       As discussed in ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 1, I am locating all the electrics involved with "being under way" in the easily accessible new helmstation. In fact that was one of the main reasons I did the new helmstation - that and the fact that I am old and want to see where I am going, and not stand out in the sun and rain all the time. And that's three good reasons!

       So for the last few days I have been working on cutting all the wires and adding the connection terminals. All of this information is available from a variety of sources, but it may be worthwhile to have it here in summary form. First of all, lets compare Blue Sea Systems fuse blocks to the cheap version of Ancor (I am not sure if they have an expensive version).

 

    First of all, there is no comparison in the feel of quality - the Blue Sea (right) feels much better. Also it has a cover with spaces for labels. But what got me thinking in the first place was that if I want to have alternate/ additional circuit for the inside helmstation, I can do that with the Blue Sea because it has screw terminals, while with the Ancor's quick disconnect I can only attach one wire. ( the wire from the fuse up to the switch, where as with the screw terminal I could use the same fuse and have a wire to the switch at each helmstation- by attaching two wires at the fuse connection) Be sure that when you order your fuse blocks and wire connectors that they are compatible, ie number 8 screws with number eight holes in the connectors.

        The next photo shows some standard tools - AND IT IS HARD TO DO A GOOD JOB WITHOUT THE RIGHT TOOLS AND QUALITY MATERIALS - YOU ARE NOT SAVING MONEY BY SKIMPING ON YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I probably have $1200 in my wiring, fuses, a few tools, and switches at this point. Good wire strippers (Klein - never had a bad Klein tool yet), and a ratchet crimping tool (Ancor I think) are essential. I am using heat shrink connectors, and this is the correct crimping tool - it has a set of labeled dies in the jaw that make a perfect crimp everytime. The double crimp tool (not shown) is for non heat shrink connectors. Use only marine tinned wire. The best price on all of this stuff is www.genuinedealz.com.  Mike is always there for the phone and so far (four or five orders) he has been terrific. Prices are significantly unbeatable. Be sure to label all wires, and use only marine connectors. There is no question that you will regret auto store or Habor Freight connectors. The heat gun is for shrinking the connectors, which seal out corrosion and strenthen the joint.

 

    And the last thought is when you are cutting your wires to length, be sure to consider the extra amount it will take to follw an organized path in bundles, AND ESPECIALLY CONSIDER having enough slack so you can open the door or dash panel up to work on it. For instance, in the photo below, it shows I needed an extra 10" of wire length to be able to rotate my dash instrument panel into a position where I could work on it.

    

[Captain Greg]

Bob, I have one of these little labelers and I highly recommend you get one. You can wrap a label at both ends of a wire for ID. I'm also employing it for marking everything on the damn boat, because I expect to have smart kids and stupid adults on board usually. They're $25-30 all day long. The thing I like is that it really tidies things up.

Perfect example: I just put a red light in down at the steps that comes on when the bilge pump runs. Just a little eye-catcher if it's happening too often, visible from pretty much the whole inside of the boat and cockpit. Instead of me being the only one who knows what it is, I'm marking it "Bilge Pump Running."

A tidy wiring scheme is great. A tidy well-marked one is one better.

You won't be billed for this brilliant piece of insight and advice. ~Greg

PS. I can't emphasize your point about slack in the wires enough. My gauge panel has barely enough slack in the wires to see behind it. Who was the genius who thought that was a good way to do it? It's not like we're lacking in space behind the panel. And wire is cheap. Give it another foot so it can be worked on later...