Took SoNice out for a quick (very quick) spin on Saturday. Engine is still overheating - only once we're underway though. It'll run for quite a while at the dock, barely getting warm, but once moving under power she overheats in minutes.
Didn't get to spend as much time as I'd intended on Sunday to try to diagnose the problem. My mechanic is coming by tomorrow to take a look at it. It's gotta be something straightforward, but I've already checked most of the obvious stuff. We'll see.
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So this is a pretty old post - but wanted to follow up in this particular thread for anybody else that runs across it.
It turned out the problem was the old exhaust. The new engine we put in was a good bit larger and with the older exhaust, it kept popping leaks because of the increased water pressure (and it was a pretty old bronze exhaust). After a few efforts by the mechanic to mend the original exhaust the already constrained flow was reduced farther. Basically: not enough water could flow through that exhaust.
The mechanic built a brand new, stainless steel water-injected exhaust and lifter and we had no more overheating problems.
Please call me (MUFF) 909-561-4245
Done!
e-mail me at ...mepackard@hotmail.com...i have a great pic of your boat, escape, denver....mark packard
First thing I think is to check your raw water flow at exhaust - I think you said you did that - then check your heat exchanger flow - i.e. the engines water pump and thermostat that conrol internal flow- either could be bad - and check the tension in the engines water pump belt to make sure it is tight enough. I am sure you know it, but I will say it anyway - please don't take it as an insult - the engine has two water systems - the raw water and the engine water - and two pumps, one for each. (the raw water pump and the engine water pump) The heat from the engine operation is transfered from the closed circuit engine water to the raw water exhaust in the heat exchanger - it is possible there might be a problem there.
Next you have to open the engine compartment and listen for changes in the operating noise as the engine heats up. In my old Ford osco it took about 10 to 20 minutes (when just idling) for a bad crank shaft rod bearing to start its deadly ticking - and the overheating. I know you just put that engine in, but if it is overheating you got to deal with it. Collect some data, Send me some trouble shooting symtoms - I love engine mysteries. Hopefully it is a water circulation problem - but did you go back and check your transmission fluid since you filled it up? One last question - what kind of transmission do you have?
What kind of engine did you say you had?
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