TRANSOM BULWARK AND DECK BEAM STRUCTURE

[bob mitchell]

       Cut out the first layer of 3/4" (I actually used two 3/8 pieces because I am building in place now and they are easy to bend, until the epoxy drys!). The bulwark on the transom is a little different than the rest of the boat in that the first layer extends below the deck and nestles in the transom knee notch (approximately 14" wide in center, down to 13 1/2 at outsides). Next comes the deck beam. The narrow curved piece on the transom is the old one in a position to mark for the new one. A skill saw does a much better job than a jig saw on a gentle beveled curve.

The curved, narrow, "deck beam" (3/4 ply) also sits in the notch. The deck is nailed into the ledger type deck beam, and then the second layer of bulwark goes on top of the deck to lock the deck in place.

    So why all the curves? Can't help but mention this esoteric point one more time. Any time a straight board on a slant (like the side of a boat, or in this case the slanted bowed transom) is bowed it forms a curve. If you want the top edge of the board to end up a straight line you have to "spile" the board, or cut a curve to compensate for the bow on a slant. This case (the deck beam on the transom) is even a little more complicated, in that the deck has a crown in it, so you actually want a little curve!! Thank goodness I had the old one for a pattern.

 

         Also note in the bottom corners, after I replaced the "framing" (they are actually considered the 40th frame by Clyde, who built the things) I added an extra diagonal because I was not satisfied with the butt joint - an easy add on to increase the strength.  I am now ready to install the deck beam and cut off the "lift ears".