Paul, this may be some help. It came from Captain Clyde's site - a link is in right margin ( newporter.ning.com ). Captain Clyde was actually a Newporter rig maker, and these are original notes from the 60's !!!!!! (I think) For anyone who has not been over the information available on Captain Clyde's sites - you definitely need to visit. I use the sites regularly for reference.
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For anyone interested, I was able to measure Dudheen's mast raking relative to the water with the forward water tanks empty. That lifts the bow waterline 2 inches higher and increases the degree of rake. The main measured at 88 degrees; the mizzen came in at 87.6 degrees.
As to the mystery of the slack head and fore stays, my third suspicion is misplaced hard-ware on the bowsprit that was rebuilt 3 years ago by the previous owner. That is a slight bit easier than actually measuring the stays....
I’m curious about the ‘spring stay’ that goes from mast head to mast head. Is that tight or loose?
The bulkhead to mast measurement indicates a plum mast (absolutely vertical). The difference between the rake of the masts is a “thing” of the owner/rigger/captain or whoever has final say. It is historic to have a difference and some boats show considerable difference. I personally find vertical masts an insult to an otherwise beautiful boat. I suggest you look at the main mast step to see if the new one has a slot that is longer than is needed to hold the mast tenon. If it is, see if the mast is up against to back end of the slot.
The original had a slot that was longer than needed. The extra length is to allow adding to or subtracted from the rake of the mast. Yours needs more rake. That would tighten up on the fore and jib stays and slacken the back stays. If you are going to remove the masts mark where the mast is at the foot on the step and lengthen the slot if needed. Remember that if you move the foot of the mast ahead one inch you will move the head back about seven inches (educated(?) guess). I would not shorten the tenon any since that is only about 7-1/2” long to start with, and the tenon keeps the mast looking straight ahead.
Since the gap between main mast and the bulkhead is constant it appears to me that the person or boss of the person who replaced the step considered that a vertical mast was “the thing” and therefore the slot was made to fit the mast, leaving no room for adjustment.
Enjoy your Newporter!
The standard rigging appears to be all original. The only change from the delivery configuration that the previous owner's son or I can recall is when the wooden main snapped at the spreaders (due to rot) and both sticks were replaced with aluminum. The new masts were created from the original specifications.
What I found is that the Head and Fore Stays were very slack even with turnbuckles tightened to the limits, and the aft main split stays turnbuckles are at their outer limits. The main mast was re-stepped 4 years ago after the step was replaced, and 'The Dude' hasn't sailed since.
I took measurements of the main mast relative to the main salon forward bulkhead, which revealed a constant 8 inches from floor to ceiling. With the rake to the mizzen mast, it make me wonder why the main isn't as raked as well.
If I continue on this quest to restore Dudheen, I'm going pull the masts anyhow and motor through the ICW to Houston. I found more rot in the framing below the main shrouds, so no sailing across the Gulf of Mexico (Unless I make the final 'restore/salvage' decision 3 miles out).
Two cautions concerning the posting of the wire rigging list:
1. These lengths were used on the Dorchester, NJ, Newporters. The earlier boats had masts with lengths different than these boats, and previous owners may have done some things that change needed lengths. Turnbuckle adjustments may correct the situation. You can use rigging toggles to add a few inches to the lengths. Other remedies may be available; use any you like. Remember that the lengths are measured between the centers of the pin holes in the end fittings.
2. The "Ning" site, to which Bob is directing you, is in its last days. Get what you need off that site before Ning removes it from the web. They have raised the yearly fees for the site from $20 to about $1000; out of my range. I'm slowly moving all my pictures to my other site ( newporters.blogspot.com ). The Ning site will disappear sometime in July (or maybe June) of this year.
LINKS ===============
THE ROSTER
Muf, our Keeper of the Roster, has updated it. But he still needs information on boats out there that he doesn't have, like new owners, old owners, where any of the boats are. We don't post the roster on the web site, it is only sent to owners. Please send him anything you might have, or call him at:
909 561 4245
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Captain Clyde's Newporter sites:
and
The Ning site has been given a reprieve. I have transferred my Ning site to the blogspot site and will leave it there. I am keeping my Ning site open as a home for my photos and drawings.
Many of my photos there do not relate to Newporters, but a search through my collection may prove useful for your studies.
My drawings are not accurate in many respects as a result of the PAINT program used to draw them, There is no accurate scale and at best they are only useful to indicate some specific detail. Some are inaccurate because of my poor memory. Use them to help you think, not as a detailed presentation of the subject matter.
If any of you want to start a web site I suggest you remember what has happened to both my Ning site and this site (which is a Ning site) and remember that my Blogspot site is free and Blogspot's owner (Google) has promised to keep it that way.
Clyde's email:
Put 'Newporter' on Subject Line. Email is the best way to contact me. I do not regularly look at this site or its messaging system. Email will get to me post-haste.
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