Comment
Hi Jim,
This shot is better viewed full size to get rid of distortion. Also, the prop shaft may not been in position because the couple is not bolted together. However, if it would be helpful I could put the shaft right up to the coupling, although I did install a new (rebuilt) engine. I could retake this picture with a tape measure or two in the shot, if that would be helpful.
One thing I wonder about. The original prop has really good torque at low end, like docking - and would a feathering prop be able to supply that. And finally, how much extra top sailing speed and efficiency would the feathering prop supply to a heavy displacement boat like a Newporter. I do not know the answers to these questions, but do know that of my 6 sailboats, the Newporter is by far the biggest, and yet handled the best at low rpms in tight quarters. Incidentally, for a lot more photos and information on Newporter rudders just enter "rudder" in the upper right hand corner site search engine.
Hi Jim,
Removed all the posts because I was still on a learning curve - will do a final post on taper in a couple of days. BUT, when I went to the boat this morning I measured the chart given taper length (for 1.25 shaft) of 3.5" back from the shoulder and the shaft diameter was 1.25", giving the expected 1 in 16. - as you expected.
My confusion was thinking the length of the Propeller hub was the taper length - an impression I got from www.propellerpages.com web site. And of course, as I so astutely pointed out, the shaft diameter was still 1.25" at the end of the hub as well! So now I think I understand the statement "All dimensions for S.A.E. taper standards are based on the SMALL end of the taper. The reason for this is so propellers with different hub lengths (i.e. different diameters at the large end of the taper bore) will fit the same shaft diameter and have the nut face in the same position on the shaft"
It is still not clear to me whether the taper is cut all the way in the hub or is cut for the standard distance and then the diameter is left constant at the max.
www.propellerpages.com , in their technical information section, has a brief section on measuring taper, as well as charts for the standard tapers. There is one for a 1.25 shaft, but the length of the hub is different. They also mention
S.A.E. Specification J755The most widely followed dimensions for tapers is the internationally accepted standard S.A.E. taper dimensions which is 1 in 16 up to and including 5 1/2" diameter. Above this diameter the taper is 1 in 12. This standard is incorporated in the American Boat and Yacht Council (A.B.Y.C.) rules which are commonly used in Australia. All dimensions for S.A.E. taper standards are based on the SMALL end of the taper. The reason for this is so propellers with different hub lengths (i.e. different diameters at the large end of the taper bore) will fit the same shaft diameter and have the nut face in the same position on the shaft.
The chart itself exceeds what is allowed on site, but is worth looking at. Let me know what you think. I am going to go check the length once more. Hasn't grown a bit - still 4.25 inches. Also, the depth of the keyway into the hub is one half of the 5/16 inch key.
Hi Jim,
After taking some measurements of the shaft at the boat, I could not get that consistent because it was a little hard to tell where the taper ended. I am using a pretty nice digital caliper. When I got home I worked off the propeller, in millimeters, and there was some variation, but I noticed the small end inside diameter was very close to 25.4 mm, a measurement I know as an inch. I switched to inches, and it appears after repeated measurements that the large diameter is 1 1/4 inch, and the smaller diameter is 1 inch, and the length of the hub is 4 1/4 inches, giving a taper of 1 in 17.
The keyway extended the full length of the hub, open at each end, and was 5/16 inch by 5/16 inch (.31 inches). If you are not in a hurry, I will check the shaft and hub again tomorrow to be sure. friend bob
OK! The method props.com describes is the same as the one I described. I will get a battery for my caliper today and take the measurements from the shaft as well as the hub of the prop. They should agree. It will be interesting to see if we get a standard SAE ratio.
Thinking about it, the prop is in the basement. Would the taper be the difference between the diameter at the forward end minus the diameter at the aft end, divided by the length? See www.propellerpages.com
Would be glad to. I think mine is 1 1/4 as well, but will check tomorrow. It is amazing that you posted, because YESTERDAY I thought about emailing you to see if you were still around. First time in years for that thought!!!!! global telepathy??????!!!!!. Anyway, I will contact you tomorrow and we will work out the methodology. friend bob
LINKS ===============
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The Ning site has been given a reprieve. I have transferred my Ning site to the blogspot site and will leave it there. I am keeping my Ning site open as a home for my photos and drawings.
Many of my photos there do not relate to Newporters, but a search through my collection may prove useful for your studies.
My drawings are not accurate in many respects as a result of the PAINT program used to draw them, There is no accurate scale and at best they are only useful to indicate some specific detail. Some are inaccurate because of my poor memory. Use them to help you think, not as a detailed presentation of the subject matter.
If any of you want to start a web site I suggest you remember what has happened to both my Ning site and this site (which is a Ning site) and remember that my Blogspot site is free and Blogspot's owner (Google) has promised to keep it that way.
Clyde's email:
Put 'Newporter' on Subject Line. Email is the best way to contact me. I do not regularly look at this site or its messaging system. Email will get to me post-haste.
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