MIZ FINISHED PRACTICE SCARF

Worked like a charm, except the back border was not straight because this old piece of mast was not square. Will not sand because epoxy loves rough, up to a point. Now reset the jig on a fore or aft stave (front or back board) 12 inches back, ie at the end of the far end of the scarf shown - maybe even further.
Next, as soon as the weather breaks, I will scarf the STRAIGHT aft stave onto the old mast, as Clyde's email instructions suggest...
"You seem to be (I just reread your first paragraph the email to which I am responding) just rebuilding the upper five feet of the mast. I would start by deciding where to put the four scarfs and then shaping the four staves to their needed shapes and lengths. I wouldn’t take too much time in taking into account the extra length needed of the forward face piece (should be longer than the bottom piece because of the curves in the side pieces. Just make them an inch longer than the side pieces and trim them off after the mast is glued and the glue has set well. The block will have a straight, flat after surface (the after face of the mast is straight from foot to head) while the two sides follow the shape of the forward and after straves. The side strakes have a straight after edge, to be glued to the bottom (after) strake with its after edge sitting on the after strake inner face. The after and forward (bottom and top) strakes tapers to the same taper and the two sides taper the same. The block in the head must match the shape of the inside of the four strakes pulled together to the taper shapes. If you are using 1/4” plywood to make the rabbets on the upper and lower strakes, use the one that goes on the bottom strake to mark the block to saw the sides off the block. Then with the bottom strake with its “plywood rabbet” scarfed to the lower section of the mast put the “plywood rabbet” made for the top strake (but not now fastened to the upper strake) down on top of the after “p r” and with the sides drawn tight against the block you can scribe the shape of the top of the block for cutting it to shape. Now the upper (forward) strake can be fashioned with the “p r” glued to its inner face. Final assembly is now possible. I know this is as clear as crystal and properly understood. Questions are expected. Read and reread and it may make sense. When I have more time (tomorrow if Mary let’s me) I’ll write a step by step with illustrations. I’ll do two of them; one for a top end replacement and one for a mid-mast replacement. These will be more clear that what I expect the above is. It’s amazing how my run-on rambling confuses even me when I reread them, especially the ones I write late at night. I expect you either know now or will shortly, after a little study, how to do this job. "
(Captain Clyde, Feb. 2015)