Newporter 40 Together

a beautiful boat should sail forever.

The outer clamp is the strip of wood (3/4 by 3" when originally applied green (so it could be set to the curves), but shrinks to less) that runs the full length of the boat. It is notched into the frame/deck beam intersection. Both the sides and the deck are fastened to it. Tends to rot if the deck/bulwark intersection leaks.
First step is to clamp plank in position. "Spiling is the means by which a builder determines and measures the shape of any curved piece that must be fitted to a curved surface. It is accomplished by establishing a line of reference and by measuring from this line at regular intervals to where the new piece will fit." (www.duck-trap.com - a great boatbuilding site)! Spiling usually involves a reference batten that is marked, removed, and then the marks transfered to the plank - but in this case I can use the plank itself.

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Comment by bob mitchell on January 13, 2012 at 3:10am

       Our search for an answer as to why I had to spile my outer clamp when the original outer clamp was not spiled led Clyde to an interesting hypothesis, and then a further discussion about "Scantlings" in general. (SCANTLINGS are the dimensional elements of the lumber used to build a boat - as in a "Table of Scantlings" for a particular boat telling the dimensions of the parts - for instance the outer clamp)

From Clyde " But by increasing the size of the outside clamp you probably used a size that wouldn’t bend naturally into the notches in the frames.  Scantlings should be what they should be; too small and the boat will come to pieces, too big and you can’t make the wood do what it should.  Those kinds of things are what makes the designing and building of boats so interesting.  Before the scantling rules boats were built by using the ways it used to be done, and that way was what developed by trial and error; the errors sunk so the boats that didn’t sink became the models to build from.  Therefore, the boats were usually built heavy, so as to make sure they last through at least the first few storms.  Scantling rules came into being as a result of racing; designers were starting to design boats to be built with smaller dimensioned lumber so they came up with the rules to keep them from going too small.  At least that seems like what probably happened—I only have my sense of how things could have developed (guess) but it sounds good, since I have no data to come up with a better statement."

Comment by bob mitchell on January 11, 2012 at 7:25pm

Clyde and I had a sort of running spar on spiling the outer clamp, because originally it was just "set" without spiling. One of his relevant comments was about how a board has a natural curve when bent on to fit a slanted surface  -  maybe matching what you need.   From Clyde: "

Take any size board, lean it over a little, pull the ends the same direction, and you have your curved board applied to a slanting surface—without spiling.  Of course, the natural curve of that kind of “construction” may not be the same curve as your outside clamp. It may have to be pulled up or down to make it fit. So, spiling may be the way to go to relieve the tension.  A lot of small craft are built by taking a couple of planks with straight parallel sides, fastening the forward ends to a stem and wrapping them around a central form (wide at the top, narrower at the bottom) and fastening the after ends to a transom that is generally the same shape as the central form but narrower.  The “boat” at this point has no bottom, but the the bottom of the planks show a good rocker (curved up) shape and the gunwales will show a shapely shear, producing a good looking boat.  This gives good looking curves put together with slanting surfaces without “spiling.”  That’s a quick way to build a boat, but don’t forget the bottom!"
      However I did not find that the case in my situation of applying a bigger outer clamp. One of the main reason I used greater dimensions, which Clyde appreciated, was that the notch surface wood was worn out, so by cutting new over size notches I created a fresh glue surface.

            LINKS ===============

THE ROSTER

Muf, our Keeper of the Roster, has updated it.  But he still needs information on boats out there that he doesn't have, like new owners, old owners, where any of the boats are.  We don't post the roster on the web site, it is only sent to owners.  Please send him anything you might have, or call him at:      

gmuf48@aol.com   

909 561 4245

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Captain Clyde's Newporter  sites:

newporters.blogspot.com

and  

newporter.ning.com

The Ning site has been given a reprieve.   I have  transferred my Ning site to the blogspot site and will leave it there. I am keeping my Ning site open as a home for my photos and drawings.

Many of my photos there do not relate to Newporters, but a search through my collection may prove useful for your studies.

My drawings are not accurate in many respects as a result of the PAINT program used to draw them, There is no accurate scale and at best they are only useful to indicate some specific detail.  Some are inaccurate because of my poor memory.  Use them to help you think, not as a detailed presentation of the subject matter.

If any of you want to start a web site I suggest you remember what has happened to both my Ning site and this site (which is a Ning site) and remember that my Blogspot site is free and Blogspot's owner (Google) has promised to keep it that way.

 

Clyde's email:

camgphil@msn.com 

Put 'Newporter' on Subject Line.  Email is the best way to contact me.  I do not regularly look at this site or its messaging system.  Email will get to me post-haste. 

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