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Yikes! I'm hoping we keep finding solid wood close enough to the surface to save it with epoxy filler before having to go this deep.
WHAT?????? and miss all this fun? No, I am going to leave the chainplates as original. Have already rebuilt the portside chainplate blocks, and they are in place. You know, on a rebuild like this, where everything becomes totally accessible, they aren't that much trouble. But I certainly debated it in my mind and with friends.
The new chainplate blocking is not a solid piece of dougfir, but a lamination of a very thick piece of white oak and 3/4 marine plywood, SATURATED with epoxy. In fact I will assume a leaky cap rail (although I don't expect it) and the whole area, frames and all, will be epoxy saturated.
One modification I am making is that the bulwark will not be plywood set on end grain. It will be a stack of high quality pressure treated southern pine - like I made the new outer clamps (sheer clamp) out of. The stack(not vertical pieces) will be fastened directly to the deck, as well as the two layers of 3/8 planking that extend above the deck. (I am doing two layers of 3/8" planking instead of one 3/4. Should be much stronger and more durable (the bulwark that is)).
It really has been great to hear from you guys. Think of YAWL often. Having Jasper's favorite, grilled okra, right out of the back yard, every other night!!!!!!!! I posted an ALBUM on dampers with all kinds of good info and photos. I never could find a shouldered bolt the right length, so I torqued the grade 8's .to 30 ft lbs and let it go. hope I don't regret it. Also, REALLY glad you got a boat ride!!!!
And finally, check out the cleaned up chainplate that is in the forground of this photo. A bronze ground screw, bronze bolts, and stainless steel - an interesting combo!!!!! The featured photo is after I wire brushed of all the corrosion obvious in this photo.This is the only chainplate that I found a problem with. I have switched the bronze carriage bolts to stainless hexheads, and I may let the heads show, not sure yet. (Partly because I added a new 5/4 yellow pine layer, the full length of the boat, to the three layers of doug fir that form the inner clamps, so the bolts had to be longer anyway.) (the inner clamp layers are the 6" boards behind the frames, obvious in this picture - not that you didn't know that - but you know Uncle Clyde's nomenclature is the universal language on this site!!!!!!!! and I am glad of it.
LINKS ===============
THE ROSTER
Muf, our Keeper of the Roster, has updated it. But he still needs information on boats out there that he doesn't have, like new owners, old owners, where any of the boats are. We don't post the roster on the web site, it is only sent to owners. Please send him anything you might have, or call him at:
909 561 4245
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Captain Clyde's Newporter sites:
and
The Ning site has been given a reprieve. I have transferred my Ning site to the blogspot site and will leave it there. I am keeping my Ning site open as a home for my photos and drawings.
Many of my photos there do not relate to Newporters, but a search through my collection may prove useful for your studies.
My drawings are not accurate in many respects as a result of the PAINT program used to draw them, There is no accurate scale and at best they are only useful to indicate some specific detail. Some are inaccurate because of my poor memory. Use them to help you think, not as a detailed presentation of the subject matter.
If any of you want to start a web site I suggest you remember what has happened to both my Ning site and this site (which is a Ning site) and remember that my Blogspot site is free and Blogspot's owner (Google) has promised to keep it that way.
Clyde's email:
Put 'Newporter' on Subject Line. Email is the best way to contact me. I do not regularly look at this site or its messaging system. Email will get to me post-haste.
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