Rebuilding Frame 36:

[bob mitchell]

Frame 36 had the unfortunate position right under an ill advised, non-standard cowling vent (see earlier pictures "Maintenance Warning"). The leaky vents were probably responsible for the deteriated condition of my transom area - deteriated to the point that I didn't know where to start - bad chine and bad frames - only the planking was in position and not crumbling. So for frame 36, which is the frame that the two front legs of the rudder support anchor to, I cut a vertical window in the plywood planking between frame 36 (immediately aft) and frame 37 (immediately forward) giving me a more or less 10" window to work in.

This photo, from top to bottom, shows the bulwark cap, the bulwark, the 3/4" deck, the outer clamp (hole in it), the inner clamp, and dropping down a ways the chine (ragged edge, rest between frames 36 and 37 removed) intersecting the chine joint of the frames  In the background is the corner of the cockpit and the vertical cockpit drain. Of course, you have to realize that I am going to replank this whole area after I get the frames all rebuilt, but for now most of the plywood stays because it locates all the new framing, and the transom, which is next!

           If you were a real boat person you could do all kinds of computations and gyrations, and theoretical gestations, but a country boy might just take his sawsall out, and slip in between the frame in question and anything it is anchored to, and gently cut all the nails and bolts. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT, take a couple of 3" selfdrilling deck screws and make sure the frame is stabilized by putting a few through the plywood gussets at the chine. Then if you are careful you can slide the port half of the frame, or the starboard half (whichever is not in the broiling sun - on my boat there is an AM side and a PM side!)  Remember, the side member of the frame is bolted to a deck beam at the top, so you have to get behind the outer clamp. It is also very well nailed to the three layer inner clamp, so don't forget to cut those - and unbolt it from floor 36 if the bottom member of the frame has not rotted away.

             Now carefully lay each half on workbench and draw a template as a reference for setting up the new one, and in case you get really confused - and label all pieces port, starboard, port aft face, stb fwd face, etc. Now get some premo white oak and go to it. Use the old pieces to set your table saw, band saw, skill saw, and or jointer angles, and keep the old pieces in front of you so you will be oriented correctly (these angled cuts can be made with many different tools). Although I did not do finger joints at the chine intersection of the side and bottom frame, I am more than confident that this epoxied and screwed joint is more than strong enough. Come to think about it, after the glue has set up in the joint I may run the bottom center over my table saw blade, making a 1/2" wide, 1 1/4"  deep groove that I can drop a white oak "tenon" into to connect the two frame members with!

This joint has not been glued and screwed yet, and the plywood gusset that goes on top is removed for visability. Although the photo does not really show them, there are LOTS of angles to deal with - but I had the old pieces. I will fine tune the bottom in the foreground with a plane after I see how things fit. If you ever happen to do one of these BE SURE TO SEAL THE ENDGRAIN ON THE BOTTOM WITH EPOXY - IN FACT ALL ENDGRAIN!!!! Hopefully it will just slide right back into the place the plywood planking is saving for it. I also made a new floor 36 to go with the frames, once again from premo quarter sawn white oak. With out any further operations, I can repeat this whole operation for frame 37 if I choose to. As always, my wonderful friend Clyde has done yeoman's work keeping me on track, drawing lots of diagrams and carrying on PAGES of email discussion to keep me in the game!