Newporter 40 Together

a beautiful boat should sail forever.

Lumber and Design Considerations for Forefoot Construction

       The original lower forefoot was made from 6"x12"x9' Douglas Fir, but that is not readily available in the South, and expensive if you find it. I continue to champion Southern Yellow Pine, as hard and strong, and readily available, and cheap. Historically, hard southern yellow pine has always been considered good boat wood, is what I read. I have personnally used it for decades, and believe in it. So I go to Home Depot, search through the 2"x12"x16' pile and pick out some relatively clear tight grained boards, today at $17 dollars apiece. Then I go home and mill out the quarter sawn, i.e. get rid of the center. That's approximately 32 board feet, take out the center if you need to, and make it about 25 board feet of premo kiln dried quarter sawn for less than a $1 a board foot - that can't be right - some body calculate that a little better. I must have made a mistake.

        So one of the problems you can run into with this lumber is case hardening, where it was kiln dried to fast, and created internal stresses, but when you cut out the center, or down the center, most of those, if they are there, are relieved. A run or two through a joiner and a planer and I have outstanding lumber. Actually, after you have been through the process a few times you can almost tell how to avoid the internal stresses from the grain patterns.

           So, I am going to laminate up my forefoot blank. I have a choice - I can have four 2x12" with glue planes running vertical, which would be really easy to saw out, OR rip the 2x12s in half and have the glue planes running horizontally. After a while the choice for me became obvious - there are 9 fasteners that run through or into the forefoot. If I did vertical glue planes the compression on the bolts would not help their strength, but if I did horizontal glue planes the bolts would compliment and lock them in place.

     One note of signifigance is I can get away with this relatively thick, stiff material because I am not bending it. The forefoot curve of a Newporter is made mostly by cutting the curve on the leading edge.

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THE ROSTER

Muf, our Keeper of the Roster, has updated it.  But he still needs information on boats out there that he doesn't have, like new owners, old owners, where any of the boats are.  We don't post the roster on the web site, it is only sent to owners.  Please send him anything you might have, or call him at:      

gmuf48@aol.com   

909 561 4245

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Captain Clyde's Newporter  sites:

newporters.blogspot.com

and  

newporter.ning.com

The Ning site has been given a reprieve.   I have  transferred my Ning site to the blogspot site and will leave it there. I am keeping my Ning site open as a home for my photos and drawings.

Many of my photos there do not relate to Newporters, but a search through my collection may prove useful for your studies.

My drawings are not accurate in many respects as a result of the PAINT program used to draw them, There is no accurate scale and at best they are only useful to indicate some specific detail.  Some are inaccurate because of my poor memory.  Use them to help you think, not as a detailed presentation of the subject matter.

If any of you want to start a web site I suggest you remember what has happened to both my Ning site and this site (which is a Ning site) and remember that my Blogspot site is free and Blogspot's owner (Google) has promised to keep it that way.

 

Clyde's email:

camgphil@msn.com 

Put 'Newporter' on Subject Line.  Email is the best way to contact me.  I do not regularly look at this site or its messaging system.  Email will get to me post-haste. 

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