Comments - Interior Flooring - Newporter 40 Together2024-03-29T06:11:31Zhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profiles/comment/feed?attachedTo=2966112%3ABlogPost%3A46649&xn_auth=noI quote myself in an earlier…tag:newporterworks.ning.com,2016-10-07:2966112:Comment:464582016-10-07T01:39:49.105ZClyde A. Phillipshttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/ClydeAPhillips
<p>I quote myself in an earlier comment: "<span>The soles were of plywood, hopefully marine grade. They were topped with normal house grade linoleum type tiles, 8” to 12” squares with extruded aluminum “T” trim around the hatch covers." I still hold to that, but I'm wondering about the "T" shaped extrusions that surrounded each removable section of sole. That may have been closer to a flat bar that was screwed to the edges of each section that lapped over its neighbor. A hunt through the…</span></p>
<p>I quote myself in an earlier comment: "<span>The soles were of plywood, hopefully marine grade. They were topped with normal house grade linoleum type tiles, 8” to 12” squares with extruded aluminum “T” trim around the hatch covers." I still hold to that, but I'm wondering about the "T" shaped extrusions that surrounded each removable section of sole. That may have been closer to a flat bar that was screwed to the edges of each section that lapped over its neighbor. A hunt through the pictures found elsewhere on this site or on either of my sites (see the links in the column to the right). Hopefully we can find a photo of the original sole. All of those of you who are interested in this, please lend a hand searching though any collections of Newporters you can find. Many thanks. <br/></span></p> Thank you both for your "comm…tag:newporterworks.ning.com,2016-10-06:2966112:Comment:466542016-10-06T12:06:10.056ZMark Lamonthttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/MarkLamont
<p>Thank you both for your "comments" for this newbie owner who will use the term cabin sole and not the architectural term. I have started a two part approach to the cabin sole thinking that my immediate concern and safety is to remove all mastic and "Gorilla glue" the remnants of the oak parquet and sand and finish as is.</p>
<p>I'm paying close attention in the ability to lift the hatches for inspection. Resolute's are an interference fit in that the inch depth of each hatch when lifted by…</p>
<p>Thank you both for your "comments" for this newbie owner who will use the term cabin sole and not the architectural term. I have started a two part approach to the cabin sole thinking that my immediate concern and safety is to remove all mastic and "Gorilla glue" the remnants of the oak parquet and sand and finish as is.</p>
<p>I'm paying close attention in the ability to lift the hatches for inspection. Resolute's are an interference fit in that the inch depth of each hatch when lifted by one edge scrapes against the sole frame it fits into. I've bevelled the lower half of the hatch to allow less interference. It still interferes, but much less.</p> Well, well, well!!! I think…tag:newporterworks.ning.com,2016-10-03:2966112:Comment:463632016-10-03T02:22:22.010ZClyde A. Phillipshttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/ClydeAPhillips
<p>Well, well, well!!! I think Bob may have lost this bet. But I will give my lasting impression (that’s my current memory after I’ve almost forgotten every thing) as to what the cabin sole finish (the part you walk on) is. I’ll start with a statement that if you look at the Newporter as a whole the major woods are Douglas fir for the dead wood, stem, forefoot and the cabinet work framing, white oak for the hull frames, and the rest is marine grade plywood for the hull and house (the apron…</p>
<p>Well, well, well!!! I think Bob may have lost this bet. But I will give my lasting impression (that’s my current memory after I’ve almost forgotten every thing) as to what the cabin sole finish (the part you walk on) is. I’ll start with a statement that if you look at the Newporter as a whole the major woods are Douglas fir for the dead wood, stem, forefoot and the cabinet work framing, white oak for the hull frames, and the rest is marine grade plywood for the hull and house (the apron is a major element, and it’s marine ply). Interior hi-grade ply (much of it in paper back ply (prevents the ply grain from showing through the paint)) goes into the cabinets, “built in furnishings” and bulkheads. The soles were of plywood, hopefully marine grade. They were topped with normal house grade linoleum type tiles, 8” to 12” squares with extruded aluminum “T” trim around the hatch covers. Not the very best that could have been done, but a lot of them lasted 40-50 years. </p>
<p> <span style="font-size: 13px;">So, that’s my first guess. My second guess is that you owners and caregivers can make as good a guess as I can, and what you decide on will be good in your eyes. That’s the important thing, do your repairs and rebuilds to suit your sense of what’s right. A search in the various boatbuilding books out there will give you good suggestions. Read the old ones first and the newest one last to get an idea of what is now the accepted process to do what you need to do.</span></p>
<p> <span style="font-size: 13px;">Have fun in your work. There is nothing like enjoying what you have decided to do. Personally I have as much fun working on a boat (sail boat my top preference) as I do sailing.</span></p> Clyde will know what…tag:newporterworks.ning.com,2016-10-02:2966112:Comment:466512016-10-02T19:34:25.337Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
<p> Clyde will know what the eastern boats soles were, I bet. But am just basically redoing my boat in recycled doug fir paneling, white oak oil finished, and heart pine. Sort of a native woods approach, with some recycled chris craft mahogany ply wood. But then again, I am going for a more work boat homey look - definitely not yachty, because I plan to live and work aboard. I will say this for sure. Both our boats have been down long, tough roads, and are really glad to have us as what…</p>
<p> Clyde will know what the eastern boats soles were, I bet. But am just basically redoing my boat in recycled doug fir paneling, white oak oil finished, and heart pine. Sort of a native woods approach, with some recycled chris craft mahogany ply wood. But then again, I am going for a more work boat homey look - definitely not yachty, because I plan to live and work aboard. I will say this for sure. Both our boats have been down long, tough roads, and are really glad to have us as what Capt. Clyde calls "caretakers". He is always reinforcing the idea that it is my boat, and within reason should be my creation. For now, in my pilot house where a lot of the sole is engine hatch, I am doing plywood and rug - for now. Incidentally, I had oak Parquet as well - looked pretty good. However, In original boats the frames were white oak, planking was doug fir plywood, the "floors" were white oak (bottom of frames that bolted to apron)., the trim was mahogany, and I really don't know what original sole was, which is what you are asking about. Incidentally, you can find doug fir 2 x4s, clear quarter sawn, at home depot for $3.00, if you are choosey. Of course, you are out west so I guess you can get any doug fir dimension you want. For my front main cabin hatch I used Brazilian Teak.</p>
<p> You know, when you think about it, there isn't much sole in the main cabin. I am trying the idea that two wide boards, hinged on each side to berth bottoms, would give me complete access to that bilge area. One of the most, or possibly the most, dominant design in my redesign and rebuild is that everywhere on the boat is accessible.</p>