BILGE PUMP SYSTEM AND CIRCUITRY (MORE SWITCHES)

When I look at the system and see what appear to be boring photos of switches, I feel for you guys. BUT becoming even casually familiar with the world of switches has expanded my design abilities. The design of bilge pump circuitry is just one example.
Beyond the goal of keeping my boat afloat in a limited leak (I say limited because standard bilge pumps won't even come close to keeping a boat afloat if you have a real breach. For example (from Calder, Boat Owner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual, aka "the bible"), a 2" hole 2 feet below water surface would allow 111 gallons per minute, while the capacity under ideal conditions of a strong 2000 gallons per hour centripetal pump with a 1 1/8" hose is 33 gallons per minute!) ......as I was saying...beyond keeping my boat afloat while unattended during a limited leak, I really wanted to be able to get rid of that water that occasionally accumulates between the apron and the sides - which the usual centripetal pumps have trouble doing because of their shape. as well as the location of the foot switch. The Whale supersub 1100 gph shown are $33 bucks a piece, and fit perfectly between a couple of frames. The whale float switch is $17, so it is affordable to have a redundant system with one pump nestled on each side of the apron.
So here is where the switches come in. One school doesn't want to be able to have an off switch for fear of accidentally having the bilge pump turned off when they leave the boat. Another school likes the ability to manually turn the pump on - like when you board your Newporter and there is water in the bilge but not enough to trigger the float switch, i.e. the float switch is on the surface of the apron, and the water is sloshing up to the surface. The solution is to install an "on - (on)" switch, which means on all the time or on momentarily. This is a single pole double throw switch (as discussed in last few switch posts) that is on all the time, or switched to a momentary circuit that by passes the float switch as long as you hold the switch in that position. These on - (on) switches come in a toggle switch or a rocker switch (an on - (on) toggle is about $10 From Pacer Marine - from my experience a Really good company for electrical supplies, including tinned wire and heat shrink terminals. So when I get on the boat I just hit the momentary on switch and get rid of any water. I can do both sides of the apron, each with it's own toggle, and the supersub is right down there where it needs to be. I could have set it up with one double pole double throw on - (on) switch, but then I would have lost my redundancy.