Basic Structure

In this pic I have out a few vertical members to fasten the oak drawer slides to. The drawer is shown with its slide (not visible) between the two horizontal cabinet slides for the top drawer. Here are some general points to remember when using homemade oak slides.
1) Make sure the cabinet is square, i.e. the distance across the front of the box equals the distance across the back of the box, so that the slides on each side will remain parallel. Otherwise the box motion will get sloppy and bind, which can only be correct by shimming the slides, or making a slide of variable thickness.
2) Speaking of sloppy, binding motion, - how much space or clearance should be given between the slides. I try for 1/16" on each side.If the clearance is to loose the drawer will angle and bind when pushing it in and out. If to tight it it will bind when it swells due to moisture. It takes some tuning to find the sweet spot.
3) There is a slide on the side of the drawer which goes in between the two sildes on the cabinet. The bottom slide on the cabinet supports the drawer and the top slide keeps it from tilting.
4) The way I do drawers, everything depends on the face frame opening dimensions. The width of the drawer is measured from outside to outside of the drawer slide, and matches the width of the face frame opening. (therefore the width of the drawer box is the face frame opening minus the thickness of the two slides on each side of the drawer box. I usually use 1/2" for my slide thickness, so the drawer box outside width would be the face frame minus 1".) The height of the drawer box can vary because the drawer box trim put on later is what will match the face frame opening. (more on that in another pic)