What a great post!! WE NEED MORE OF THOSE FROM MORE PEOPLE !!!!!
And once again it is pointed out that wherever there is plywood endgrain you can expect problems if it’s protection is not maintained, especially if it is vertical grain! I consider the bulwark rail cap, under windows, and the hawse holes just about the most vulnerable areas on a Newporter. Water entering those areas can travel so far, and has no way out,
Doing extensive damage.
Thanks for being there Bob, please don't give up the ship, so to speak with the website, It would be a great loss to not have this website available.
For the last year or two I hadn't had many entries, I had an old email attached to this account that I don't monitor anymore and I couldn't get the email address to change, it kept rejecting saying "Not Secure" I tried it again last week and it finally allowed me to change the email, so I will be more apt to contribute now, and since I'm in the midst of another round of painting, which never involves just painting. I always discover new areas of dry rot that need addressed, and who knows what else will need attention.
I am finally doing a more proper job of the decks and cabin house. I'm going to apply "Kiwi Grip" non skid deck coating. I bought 2 of the 4 liter kits in a cream color and may have to get another, I'm hoping 2 gallons is enough, but it does go on rather thick. You trowel it on like tile mortar and then use a special roller to achieve the desired surface, you can have it fairly smooth or an aggressive work boat texture. I want it fairly smooth, it's too hard to keep clean decks when the surface is rougher.
I'm currently as the photos show, repairing all the nail pops on the decks, and there are many, I started off using a drill to open them up but switched to my sonic crafter tool and that works faster, and gives me a better result, I just dig around the nail head (or what's left) and get rid of all the soft wood around it. After opening the screw/nail? holes up I use 2 part penetrating epoxy with fungicide (Git rot) and saturate each hole and fill it with the epoxy, after 2 -3 fillings they are solid again in those areas. My next step is to fill all the deck holes with Formula 27 2 part filler then sand everything smooth.
Before I can apply the non skid I will apply a fresh coat of paint to the bulwarks and the cabin house, and the lines that I will have between the non skid areas. I have to have all those areas ready to go before I apply the deck coating.
bob mitchell
And once again it is pointed out that wherever there is plywood endgrain you can expect problems if it’s protection is not maintained, especially if it is vertical grain! I consider the bulwark rail cap, under windows, and the hawse holes just about the most vulnerable areas on a Newporter. Water entering those areas can travel so far, and has no way out,
Doing extensive damage.
Sep 29, 2020
Greg & Angie Wheeler
Sep 29, 2020
Greg & Angie Wheeler
Thanks for being there Bob, please don't give up the ship, so to speak with the website, It would be a great loss to not have this website available.
For the last year or two I hadn't had many entries, I had an old email attached to this account that I don't monitor anymore and I couldn't get the email address to change, it kept rejecting saying "Not Secure" I tried it again last week and it finally allowed me to change the email, so I will be more apt to contribute now, and since I'm in the midst of another round of painting, which never involves just painting. I always discover new areas of dry rot that need addressed, and who knows what else will need attention.
I am finally doing a more proper job of the decks and cabin house. I'm going to apply "Kiwi Grip" non skid deck coating. I bought 2 of the 4 liter kits in a cream color and may have to get another, I'm hoping 2 gallons is enough, but it does go on rather thick. You trowel it on like tile mortar and then use a special roller to achieve the desired surface, you can have it fairly smooth or an aggressive work boat texture. I want it fairly smooth, it's too hard to keep clean decks when the surface is rougher.
I'm currently as the photos show, repairing all the nail pops on the decks, and there are many, I started off using a drill to open them up but switched to my sonic crafter tool and that works faster, and gives me a better result, I just dig around the nail head (or what's left) and get rid of all the soft wood around it. After opening the screw/nail? holes up I use 2 part penetrating epoxy with fungicide (Git rot) and saturate each hole and fill it with the epoxy, after 2 -3 fillings they are solid again in those areas. My next step is to fill all the deck holes with Formula 27 2 part filler then sand everything smooth.
Before I can apply the non skid I will apply a fresh coat of paint to the bulwarks and the cabin house, and the lines that I will have between the non skid areas. I have to have all those areas ready to go before I apply the deck coating.
Sep 29, 2020