Featured Discussions - Newporter 40 Together2024-03-29T15:46:50Zhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/forum/topic/list?feed=yes&xn_auth=no&featured=1Jack's Boat!tag:newporterworks.ning.com,2015-08-22:2966112:Topic:426222015-08-22T15:32:50.675ZHaydn Windlehttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/HaydnWindle
<p>Hello everybody!</p>
<p>I am writing to you on behalf of Miller Marine Systems. For the past seven years or so, we have been rebuilding for a client; a Newporter 40, with the name "Yellow Bird". Believed to be hull number 107 and built in New Jersey. </p>
<p>We recommended he not buy this boat due to it's rough condition. But at his insistence, the boat was shipped to Miami and worked commenced. Jack, the owner, who in 1945 stormed ashore at Okinawa with nothing more that a Thompson Sub…</p>
<p>Hello everybody!</p>
<p>I am writing to you on behalf of Miller Marine Systems. For the past seven years or so, we have been rebuilding for a client; a Newporter 40, with the name "Yellow Bird". Believed to be hull number 107 and built in New Jersey. </p>
<p>We recommended he not buy this boat due to it's rough condition. But at his insistence, the boat was shipped to Miami and worked commenced. Jack, the owner, who in 1945 stormed ashore at Okinawa with nothing more that a Thompson Sub Machine gun, can be very insistent!</p>
<p>However, Jack's economic circumstances have now dramatically changed for the worse. So much so that he has instructed us to "Keep the boat, and do what you can with it". Sad, sad news for everyone.</p>
<p>To date he has invested around $50k, not including labor charges. Yellow bird is at a private dock on the Miami river.So we are reaching out through your excellent organization, if anyone knows anybody who is searching for a Newporter 40, then we have Yellow Bird here!</p>
<p>Some examples of the work carried out, all to the highest standard and with the best materials:</p>
<p>From the waterline,down, stripped off the polyester fiber glass and replaced with two layers of 12 oz Bi axial, set in epoxy. Four layers under the lead keel.</p>
<p>Complete new head with new unused holding tank. Many new laminated frames, all floors refastened. </p>
<p>She has a new cockpit and outdoor and indoor steering console. New berths and galley cabinets.</p>
<p>The sails have been inspected by a sail maker and deemed to be in good condition. The engine likewise has been worked on by a marine engineer and has many new parts, including, new injectors, a 90 and 150 amp alternators. It is a Ford Lehman and starts on the button.</p>
<p>The two alloy masts are down and there appears to be no rigging issues.</p>
<p>The list of accessories is endless, new bilge pumps, an ac/da fridge, 40lb Danforth anchor with chain, to name a few!</p>
<p>So please, speak to everyone you know, Yellow bird's future is uncertain, and the "unthinkable" just cannot be allowed to happen. The dock is paid up until the end of October, and at $400 a month is quite reasonable, should anyone wish to continue with her restoration. The vessel is still a 'project' boat, but all the difficult, expensive stuff has been done. We can and will do anything possible to assist the new owner in getting her up and running again.</p>
<p>We are looking for around $25k, but this is negotiable. Many many photos are available at every stage of her time with us, just ask to see them, along with the vessel's documentation.</p>
<p>Feel free to contact me, Haydn, on 786 713 3171, or Rick Miller, 305 498 1049, or through our advert in Wooden Boat Magazine, Miller Marine Systems.</p>
<p>Thank you for reading this! </p> from bobtag:newporterworks.ning.com,2013-07-18:2966112:Topic:298892013-07-18T00:01:45.578Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
<p>MY COMPUTER BUSTED - WILL BE AWAY FOR AN EXTENDED TIME - CLYDE IS IN CONTROL!</p>
<p>MY COMPUTER BUSTED - WILL BE AWAY FOR AN EXTENDED TIME - CLYDE IS IN CONTROL!</p> Stem/Forefoot Structure and Replacement Plantag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-08-03:2966112:Topic:56652010-08-03T23:28:37.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
Underneath the most forward keel bolt coming up through the apron is the joint where the forefoot is joined with the deadwood. These two photos combined show the whole joint. The scarf going aft is 24" past the lead keel.<br></br>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"> </p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608384?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721"></img></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608291?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721"></img></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">The joint is covered, or bridged for strength by 3/4 vertical plywood on each side that is the final extension of the…</p>
Underneath the most forward keel bolt coming up through the apron is the joint where the forefoot is joined with the deadwood. These two photos combined show the whole joint. The scarf going aft is 24" past the lead keel.<br/>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"> </p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608384?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608291?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">The joint is covered, or bridged for strength by 3/4 vertical plywood on each side that is the final extension of the vertical plywood that covers all of the 5 1/2" Douglas Fir deadwood. You can see the forward end of the plywood marked on one of the blueprints from Clyde. Also, you might notice the West Coast boats (in blueprint) with their almost 6 foot draft iron keel are a little different than the 5 foot lead keel East coast boats. A smooth transition width wise between the deadwood and the forefoot was achieved by tapering the last couple of feet of the deadwood down from 5 1/2" to 4", and "notching" (for lack of a better word) the forefoot as well. The vertical line to the right in the first photo is the forward margin of the 3/4" pl,ywood that spans the deadwood/forefoot joint and extends all the way to the aft end of the deadwood.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608360?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">The next photo shows the first and second pieces that comprise the stem, their joint being hidden behind the doubled number 4 frame. The doubled number 4 frame also has a 3/4" plywood bulkhead bolted to its front face. The piece labeled 4-5p is a "cheek", nailed between the frames in this area to increase the planking surface. On the forard side of frame 4 the cheek has been removed. The end view cross section behind the frame is floor 4, resting on the stem and bolted through stem and forefoot. The plywood upper right is in great shape, and well fastened. All though hard to see in this photo, the rabbet is right below the lower cheek edge.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608334?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">The next photo shows the joint between the upper and lower stem pieces, althoug the photo may not accurately document the joint because the piece behind the bobstay staple appears to have been replaced. The next shot is just a general full length view of the stem/forefoot area for perspective.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608428?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608393?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">The basic plan is once again to leave as much in place as I can for reference as I replace individual pieces sequentially. Most of the frames are in good shape except at the very bottom. All of the cheek blocks are rotten, so as a general approach I will cut the bottom of the frames off along a line parallel to the outside surface of the cheeks. The completion of that task will be the reinsertion of one long continuous "cheek" that the frames butt to and that is fastened to the stem pieces. I will put some new cheek blocking between frames as well, but on the outside of the new piece.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"> Before I install the new long "cheek" piece I will drop the first stem piece down and out and replace it completely. The fit is easy because it is centered, and flush to the bottom of the floors, which don't come out. That process, of course, assumes that I have pulled the lower section of the forefoot, which involves sawsawing the three 1/2" bolts that came through from the apron, and pushing down and out the most forward keel bolt. For bracing I have supported the bowsprit, and have strapped the windless with an upward pull from the boom truck, and I can also add a post under the bobstay staple.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"> After the first piece of stem and forefoot are back in and bolted to the new apron</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608329?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">I will then tackle the upper pieces of stem and forefoot. The upper piece of the stem is large, widening to 9 1/2" at the top. But only the 2" along it forward surface are bad, so I will cut that out and epoxy a brand new piece in. The upper forefoot will be replaced completely. In the above photo, right below the new apron towards the left of the photo, you can make out the rabbet where the planking intersects the keel. A couple of photos back, with the bobstay staple shown, you can also make out the rabbet in the new material. In general, if you want to look for the rabbet in the stem/forefoot area, it is right below the cheekblocks.</p> CLYDE DISCUSSES NEWPORTER LIGHTNING PROTECTIONtag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-07-20:2966112:Topic:56342010-07-20T19:24:28.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
<p class="ClydesFavored" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><font face="Century Gothic" size="2"> To help you get a handle on the ground plate: it should never be painted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> It is made pithy; this is the wisdom of the plate—it is rather small but equals many square feet of copper sheet for proper grounding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> It is attached to the lead keel with bronze bolts to insure electrical connection.…</font></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt" class="ClydesFavored"><font size="2" face="Century Gothic"> To help you get a handle on the ground plate: it should never be painted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> It is made pithy; this is the wisdom of the plate—it is rather small but equals many square feet of copper sheet for proper grounding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> It is attached to the lead keel with bronze bolts to insure electrical connection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> It is one of those things that is treated like a zinc anode (no paint, make sure it’s there and sound on all haul-outs) but is not a sacrificial metal—bronze in on the high end of nobility, zinc is on the low end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Therefore, its presence is one of the reasons the zincs dissolve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> I have Jamestown Distributors (</font> <span id="OBJ_PREFIX_DWT63" class="Object"><a href="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/" target="_blank"><font title="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ CTRL + Click to follow link" color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Century Gothic">http://www.jamestowndistributors.com</font></a></span> <font size="2" face="Century Gothic">) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>in my Favorites list for the main purpose to window-shop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Search for Dynaplate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> It lists four sizes, the standard size (memory again) is what I think was used.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Personally I’d go to the next size.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Standard size is $77.33 and the next size is $123.73; standard equals 12 sq. feet, D8 (next size) equals 20.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Prices go to over $400.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Standard amounts to $6.44 a sq. foot and D8 is $6.19.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> The $400 one is just over $4.00.</font></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt" class="ClydesFavored"> </p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt" class="ClydesFavored"><font size="2" face="Century Gothic">Now to its hook-up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Going to the print “_0019.pdf” the strap is under the nut of the third bolt from the after end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> This is (should be according to the print) just ahead of the number 23 frame.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> That frame is home for the #23 Bulkhead—the ‘wall’ between the doghouse and main cabin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> The strap leads to the port side and a heavy (single strand, I think) wire goes to the lag piercing the bottom of the chainplate for the port lower mizzen shroud (going up into the bottom surface of the solid blocking acting as a mount for the chainplate).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> The print calls for the strap to be under the washer for the bolt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> I think I’d like to have it between two washers under the nut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> But the principal here is that the strap must remain stationary while tightening the nut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> The top washer of two may have less friction against the bottom washer than the single washer has against the wood of the apron.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> I would suggest that you find the wire on the chainplate (make sure it’s there).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> In the boats I rigged the spring stay (between the mast heads) was used as an antenna and was therefore insulated from the rest of the rig.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Radios of today do not use that type of antenna so present springstays should not be insulated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Go to my picture Ning thing (</font> <span id="OBJ_PREFIX_DWT64" class="Object"><a href="http://newporter.ning.com/photo/photo/list" target="_blank"><font title="http://newporter.ning.com/photo/photo/list CTRL + Click to follow link" size="2" face="Century Gothic">http://newporter.ning.com/photo/photo/list</font></a></span> <font size="2" face="Century Gothic">) for my working drawing for the springstay, right hand column, third row down, to see the insulators.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> I mention this only because with the insulators the two masts are separated electrically, so there must be a wire from one of the main chainplates to one for the mizzen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> My guess is the main lower aft shroud.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> Come to think of it, I may be wrong on which chainplates are used: The lowers do not connect electrically with the uppers, and the uppers are the one you want to use for lightning protection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> I did not do that work so I don’t know, so you may even find that all the chainplates are wired together (or at least one upper of both masts).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> I have been struck by lightning many times, but never in a Newporter (which may only mean I’ve never been near lightning in a Newporter).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span> One strike did much more damage than the cost of even the most expensive Dynaplate.</font></p>
<p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt" class="ClydesFavored"> </p> General Discussion and Documentation For Apron Replacement : BRACING, FASTENERS,BEDDING, FLOOR FITTING,FRAME REPAIRtag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-07-17:2966112:Topic:56132010-07-17T13:51:40.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
<p> I have been at Wilson's (hull #113, 1967) "on the hard" reconstruction for exactly a month to the day. Things have moved well along, but I have gotten behind on my documentation, and probably will continue to spend more time working than documenting, so this is kind of a catch all catch up before I forget it all or lose track of the photos. I can not emphsize enough that if you are going to rebuild major portions of your boat you damn well better take a lot of pictures and measurements…</p>
<p> I have been at Wilson's (hull #113, 1967) "on the hard" reconstruction for exactly a month to the day. Things have moved well along, but I have gotten behind on my documentation, and probably will continue to spend more time working than documenting, so this is kind of a catch all catch up before I forget it all or lose track of the photos. I can not emphsize enough that if you are going to rebuild major portions of your boat you damn well better take a lot of pictures and measurements before and as you tear it up. It was obvious my boat needed a new apron, and now obvious as well that it needs a new stem and forefoot as well. My strategy, since the deadwood was in great shape, was to leave as much in place while I redid floors and apron, and then I would maintain the integrity of the boat when I moved onto the other parts, ie start at the beginning and I won't have to go backwards. Yes, it will be a little work to bolt floors in and out as I repair fames and other tasks, but in the long run I think it is the best way for me. But don't despair for me because I am having a great time!!!!</p>
<p> GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF APRON AND FASTENERS: The principle role of the apron (the 6 laminated layers of 3/4" plywood that run from the stem to the stern) is join the masts and cabin structure to the 6500 pounds of lead that form the ballast keel. 1/2" x 12" bolts come up through the apron and hold the floors to the apron, while 7/8" bronze keel bolts go down through the apron and hold the lead. The apron is the unifying structural pivot that that deals with the huge torques generated by the mast/keel forces. Between the lead keel and the apron is the 5 1/2" wide Douglas Fir deadwood, connected to the apron not only by the keel bolts but 3/8" spikes which have ring shanked ends. These spikes ocurr about every 12-16" and seem to have been put in before the last plywood layer of the apron, or maybe they were plugged - but the heads are typically below the top layer of plywood. (Clyde?)</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608389?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">GALVANIZED SPIKES AND BRONZE KEEL BOLTS. THIS PHOTO SHOWS THE COMPLETE APRON CROSS SECTION, WITH THE TWO BOTTOM BEVELED LAYERS THAT THE PLYWOOD PLANKING NAILS INTO WITH BOAT NAILS. (I USED A 30 DEGREE BEVEL IN MY FIRST 7' SEQUENCE, BUT AT FLOOR 21 IT WAS LESS THAN THAT - CLYDE SAYS IT DOES VARY SOME AND I WOULD NOT DISAGREE)</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608306?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>GALVANIZED SPIKE WITH HEAD AND 12" FLOOR BOLT COMING UP THROUGH APRON. (CARRIAGE BOLT HEAD IS RIGHT BELOW VISIBLE SURFACE BECAUSE THEY WERE COUNTERSUNK THROUGH THE FIRST TWO BEVELED LAYERS OF THE APRON AND THEN PUSHED UP THROUGH THE FLOOR - TWO PER FLOOR, 8 1/2 INCHES APART, CENTER TO CENTER, IF YOU WERE LOOKING DOWN ON THE FLOOR. THIS 8 1/2" SPACING ALLOWED THEM TO STAY OUT OF THE DEADWOOD AREA - THE CARRIAGE BOLT HEADS WERE ABOUT 1 1/4" FROM THE EDGE OF THE UNBEVELED LAYERS)</p>
<p> In my rebuild I will use 3/8" x 8" hot dipped galvanized lag bolts to replace the spikes. This is basically because when the boat is already built you have limited choices on the order of opearations. When I predrill the holes for the bolts I am considering filling them with wood preservative. After that I will fill them with polyester resin or some alternative to seal the apron plywood.</p>
<p> The frames of the Newporter were prefabbed and connected to the keel/apron backbone. In the photo below the frames are obviously upside down, and the heavy member at the top is called the "FLOOR". In the next photo the apron is clearly visible as the top layered section, with the deadwood below it, and the space for the lead ballast is obvious.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608354?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608249?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p> BRACING: The reason I give the above two photos is so one can consider what the bracing has to do once the floors and the apron are removed. The basic question is what forces and support do the apron and floors supply, and what bracing configuration will replace those forces until the new apron and floors are back in place. I found the vertical 4x4 s did a good job - they took a lot of the cabin load by going directly from the ground to the cabin roof, and more by cross pieces over to the inside clamp. A 2x8" run outside the boat, screwed to the adjacent 4x4 s (aft to forward), and to the planking, will hold more weight, and prevent inward movement of the frames. But what I like best is that a "spacer" roughly supplying essentially the same frame separating force that the floor supplied, can be put between the two 4x4 s. By varying the length of the spacer you can to some degree vary the separation of the frames (see 2x6 between front two 4x4s in photo). I realize this discussion of bracing is somewhat esoteric, but if you reach the point where you actually need to do it, and have thought about it, the discussion will be relevant.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="540" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608145?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>BEDDING THE APRON: I read my standard boat construction books on BEDDING. Most were general treatments, stating that that bedding compound is always required between any members that are bolted but not glued together for the purposes of filling the voids so accumulated water cannot cause rot, to waterproof or seal the joint, and to protect from worms or borers. My favorite reference was George Buehler's "Backyard Boatbuilding". He had 14 specific references in his index, and I read everyone of them. You have to realize George is right up my kind of non yachty, blue collar guy who designed and built an incredible number of boats. His choice of bedding material was petroleum based roofing tar. One of his main philosophies is build with what is locally available. He was continually debunking the myth that you have to pay 5 times as much for something because it says it is MARINE. Clyde has stated that the in the Newporter Dolphinite was originally used for bedding. From my own observations, I would say the bedding did an effective job at isolating the deadwood from the apron in terms of water transfer. After reading all the references and opinions on bedding I concluded there was no obvious best that I could know about, and that a lot of things would work, so I chose my own , called PL PREMIUM POLYURETHANE FLASHING AND ROOF SEALENT, availible from Home depot for $6 OR $7 a tube. Of course, if you want you can buy a 3M product that says Marine on it for 3 or 4 times as much. I have had a fair amount of experience with PL, and continue to be amazed at the quality of their products. Before I bedded the first section of apron I soaked the deadwood with copper napthanate (can't remember exact spelling) Although the photo below shows the first sequence of laminations as a unit, when building I laminated one layer at a time. Since this was the first sequence I was able to lift it up for a final cleaning before bedding. For the rest of the sequences I will have to bed the first beveled layer right before starting the laminating sequence. Remember, the deadwood has a vertical layer of 3/4" plywood on each side, so the bottom width of the apron starts at 7 to 71/2" and bevels out to about 9 3/8" with a 30 degree bevel, more or less.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="540" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608293?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>FLOOR FITTING: For later frames, from 13 on, there are extra cross pieces above the floors that support the sole of the cabin, and since they don't have to be removed to take out the floors and apron, I did not worry as much about the bracing. But from the lower stem/apron junction to Floor 12, these don't exist and I worried a lot about the bracing. Even so, when I tested the old and the new floors 12 and 13 sat a little above the new apron. I attribute this to the upward cradle and bracing forces. So my strategy was to assume that if the old floor holes lined up with the old bottom frame holes, ie I could reinstall the old floors with no trouble or forcing, then I could use the old, still in place bottom frame holes as a pattern for the new floors, and when the bracing was removed and the cradle adjusted, the new floors would settle right down on the apron. This scenario of course assumes that I have made the new floors identical to the old ones, which is reasonable. AN IMPORTANT POINT -- Don't assume, when using the old floors as patterns, that they were necessarily symetrical. Also, you probably can't just mark the bottom frame bolt holes on the new floors from the old floors, and drill straight through, because the holes in the old floor frames that you are joining the new floors to are drilled at various angles - not necessarily straight through. I THINK THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS PROCESS IS TO SAVE THE OLD FLOORS FOR PATTERNS, AND TO LEAVE AS MUCH OF THE FRAMES AND PLANKING IN PLACE (UNTIL THE NEW FLOORS AND APRON ARE INSTALLED) FOR REASSEMBLY DETAILS AND SUPPORT.</p>
<p>Floor 9 is a 1/4 to 5/16" thick metal strap. It had a 1/4 shim on the port bottom frame and 3/8 on the starboard</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608288?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>I adjusted the bracing (spreader) until it fit back perfectly onto the cutoff bolts. After cleaning it up with a wire brush on a my side grinder I sprayed it with galvanizing paint, and then coated it with a thin layer of clear epoxy, I will reinstall it with new 5/16" bolts in the bottom frames, and new 1/2 x 12", epoxy dipped hot dipped galvaized bolts through the apron, using the 1/2" holes in the metal strap to locate my apron holes. After drilling the 1/2" (or 9/16" because of the epoxy) I will countersink a 1 to 1 1/2" hole from the bottom. Probably will plug up those holes with construction adhesive, and pour polyester resin down the hole to seal the apron plywood -A REAL GOAL OF MINE IS TO ENCAPSULATE THE APRON PLYWOOD. I will know how successful I was by how much compression set ocurrs where the keel bolts sit on the top layer of plywood. In the newporters I have looked at I usually see that keel washer/bolt combo a 1/2" or so below the apron top surface. It is worthwhile to look up a definition of "compression set" if you don't know about it.</p>
<p> Floor 7, which is an original one that I saved, fits perfect. I soaked the bottom frame holes in epoxy and then redrilled them to make sure they were not soft. Redrilling through the epoxy soaked wood was a confidence builder. Floor 8, a new floor, also fits great using the method explained earlier. Floor 9 is the metal strap.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608462?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>The next floors, 10,11, and 12 form the pocket that the mast step fits in, - and I have not done them yet. All of them, and the mast step as well, are new. Drilling through the mast step, floors, and apron so that they all line up will require some thought. My plan is install floors, drill through mast step sitting in the floor pocket (the floors are notched so that the mast step sits in a pocket formed by the notches) to mark the floor holes, pull out the floors and get the holes started straight on my drill press (standard procedure for all floor bolt holes UPDATE:MAY, 2011, "STANDARD PROCEDURE" FOR DRILLING FLOOR/APRON HOLES IS BOLT THE FLOORS TO FRAMES THEN CLAMP DRILLING GUIDE TO FLOOR IN PLACE AND DRILL), reinstall floors and mast step, and then drill through them and through the apron.. </p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608277?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
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<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608274?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>My almost last comment is that a Harbor Frieght close quarters drill for $30 bucks (or its equivalent) is a necessity.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608348?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p> FRAME REPAIRS: You might notice in the above picture that the scarfed oak frame tapers towards the bottom - well, I made a mistake that you can avoid. I was concentrating so hard on getting a strong scarph</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="540" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608458?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>joint that I did not check to see if the new frame lined up with its mate on the port side.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608150?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>Fortunately the situation could be remedied by a careful cut along the frame with a skillsaw set at the correct depth, and then a little more work with saw saw and chiesel. This is a really important frame and floor (floor 11) because it sits under the center of the mast step, taking a lot of the compression from the mast, as well as distributing the torque to other parts of the boat, so after I remove the planking/sheathing (which is after the floors and apron are installed) I will come back and add a 1" thick or so oak batten on the forward side, from the apron to the chine. In general, I have three frame repair processes planned: 1)the usual scarph 2) sistering where needed, 3) a flexible, triangular shaped in cross section, 1" x 1" on the triangle's equal sides, oak batten that will be glued in the corner of existing frames between the frame and the planking, AFTER I have refastened the planking. This will give a brand new, refreshed glue joint between the planking and the frames with minimum effort and maximum return because of the flexibilty of the oakstrips. (until they are glued) As far as how the frames are attached to the apron, or fittied to the apron, I would quote Dave Gerr from "Elements of Boat Strength" on page 100. "The floors and the floors alone transmit the loads from the frames to the keel (and across the boat)." He goes on to clearly explain and defend his statement. Definitely worth a read.</p>
<p> Once again, I am not claiming to be some errudite boat builder with lots of credentials. Just simply recording what I am finding out about Newporters, and what methods I am using to rebuild mine. I am absolutely convinced, with what I have seen, that any Newporter that has been given reasonable care is a very strong and able boat.</p>
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<p> </p> CORRECTIIONS ON THIS POST-MEASUREMENTS AND SHIMS, TEMPLATE FOR APRON, LAMINATING FIRST 8' OF NEW APRON TOMORROWtag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-07-01:2966112:Topic:55162010-07-01T21:45:27.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
<p> JULY 14, TWO WEEKS AFTER THIS ARTICLE WAS WRITTEN - NOT SURE ABOUT THE HEIGHT DISCREPANCY - i MIGHT HAVE EASED THE WHOLE CABIN UP, OR REDUCED THE DOWNWARD FORCE WITH THE CRADLE SO THAT WHEN THE FOORS WERE UNBOLTED THE FRAMES OR CABIN STRUCTURE ROSE 1/4 TO 1/2 ". tHE CURRENT PLAN IS TO BOLT THE FLOORS, NEW AND OLD, BACK INTO THE ORIGINAL FRAME HOLES, AND THEN EASE DOWN ON THE JACKS AND CRADLE. SO TAKE THIS ARTICLE WITH A GRAIN OF SALT. Yesterday I was caught off guard by apparent shims…</p>
<p> JULY 14, TWO WEEKS AFTER THIS ARTICLE WAS WRITTEN - NOT SURE ABOUT THE HEIGHT DISCREPANCY - i MIGHT HAVE EASED THE WHOLE CABIN UP, OR REDUCED THE DOWNWARD FORCE WITH THE CRADLE SO THAT WHEN THE FOORS WERE UNBOLTED THE FRAMES OR CABIN STRUCTURE ROSE 1/4 TO 1/2 ". tHE CURRENT PLAN IS TO BOLT THE FLOORS, NEW AND OLD, BACK INTO THE ORIGINAL FRAME HOLES, AND THEN EASE DOWN ON THE JACKS AND CRADLE. SO TAKE THIS ARTICLE WITH A GRAIN OF SALT. Yesterday I was caught off guard by apparent shims or spacers under the apron. The bottom area of the apron was in such bad shape that the shims were immeasurable mush. The reason that this is critical is that when the 4.5", 6 layers of 3/4" plywood apron is put on top of the deadwood, the floors need to rest on it solidly to distribute the weight the frames carry. My test fit of the floors showed them basically 1/4", more or less, above the apron. I was freaking, but by 3 in the morning I had come up with several solutions. But how could I confirm the discrepancy and find all the shim values short of installing all the floors, Or was the whole thing my imagination?</p>
<p> Well fortunately one of the things I did before I went on the destructo rampage was take a lot of measurements and record them on a photo.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="540" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608357?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>One of the sets was the vertical height from behind each floor from the apron surface to an arbitrary but reproducible taut line stretched between the top of frame 6, which stayed, and a point 28" above the apron surface at frame 16, which stayed. Not even a level line, BUT REPRODUCIBLE. So this morning I stretched that line again, and the difference between the original and the today gives me the thickness of the necessary shim at every floor, which turned out to be a consistent 1/4" (assuming no space for glue and bedding compound in the 6 layers and bottom respectively. Boy did I feel better.</p>
<p> But it really doesn't matter that much because when I laminate the apron in place tomorrow I will not fix it to the deadwood (except by clamps and the keel bolts serving as clamps) .Once I install the floors, and remove the bad sheathing temporarily left in place - its all part of the boat fabric, shape and movement data base - ( and while we are on the topic of sheathing Clyde and the boat building world refer to it as PLANKING, so I will adopt that lingo from now on) I will be able to shim the apron so that it supports the floor, and then put expanding bedding underneath. Below is the template for the plywood. The bevel is mostly in the bottom 2 sheets and is easily reproducible on a table saw. As you move forward the bevel increases a little by floor 8, and there are some tricky parts to the at the stem intersection, but I saved the apron chunk from there for a guide. I am getting AC Douglas Fir Marine Plywood for $75 a sheet - probably take 6 to do the whole keelson if necessary. Will use west system epoxy for this critical lamination. CORRECTION - THE DOUGLAS FIR WAS 5" WHERE I MEASURED IT, BUT IT ACTUALLY TAPERS DOWN TO 4" AT THE STEM JUNCTION OVER (FROM 5 1/2")</p>
<p>THE LAST COUPLE OF FEET SO THAT THE VERTICAL PLYWOOD ON EACH SIDE OF THE DEADWOOD CAN TRANSITION SMOOTHLY INTO THE FOREFOOT. (CORRECTION MADE ON JULY 14, 2010)The Douglas fir deadwood is 5" wide, with a vertical layer of 3/4" Doug Fir on each side, so the bottom lamination starts at 6.5" and widens with the bevel. Top of apron is 12" across.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="540" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608252?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p> Here is some more fastener documentation. As I moved forward and the planking got a little better, but still bad, it was easier to use my side grinder to cut these nails than to try to pull them through. Once again, I am impressed with the holding power of these boat nails.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608309?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p> </p> NEW FLOORS, CARRIAGE BOLT PHOTOS FOR YOUR ANALYSIS, FIRST BOTTOM FRAME SCARPH CUTtag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-06-30:2966112:Topic:54922010-06-30T01:25:08.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
Yesterday I spent the day making floors (the bottom cross pieces of the frames that rest on and are bolted through the apron) out of white oak. I did not expect to have to replace so many ( 8 out of eleven pieces), but it is area of the boat where the main mast step is seated, and these are the frames that transfer all that torque to the rest of the boat. It is the area where a collision might be felt. And finally, it is the area where the stove pipe, the mast, and the chainplate can let…
Yesterday I spent the day making floors (the bottom cross pieces of the frames that rest on and are bolted through the apron) out of white oak. I did not expect to have to replace so many ( 8 out of eleven pieces), but it is area of the boat where the main mast step is seated, and these are the frames that transfer all that torque to the rest of the boat. It is the area where a collision might be felt. And finally, it is the area where the stove pipe, the mast, and the chainplate can let water into the boat to do damage. The floors with the notches are where the mast step sits.<br/>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608088?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
Old ones were rejected for various reasons, even though they initially looked ok. Number 8 was brittle, ie the piece of wood had some original strange grain patterns that were stressing badly. Another looked ok until you poked around in the bolt holes and found a lot of pithy wood. And some were just shot - like the rotted number 10 and 12.<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608098?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p> One point I would really emphasize. SAVE the old frames, because when you go to install the new ones the subtleties and questions that pop up can only be solved by lining up the bolt holes of the original floors. Drilling the new holes is a thoughtful back and forth dance between what stays and what leaves when. Think it through ahead of time.</p>
<p> I have included a photo of almost all the bolts I took out - certainly a representative data collection. Overall I was impressed with the amount of metal left. Once again, it was not really the galvanized metal that was the problem, it was the degradation of the wood surrounding the metal, which I believe was a combination of crushing the wood fiber in the first place and then 43 years of electrolytic corrosion between the bronze keel bolts and the galvanized floor bolts. Still, even the boat nails in the apron holding the sheathing on had significant holding power. I plan to reduce the electrolytic action by dipping all my new galvanized floor bolts in epoxy ahead of time and letting them dry, giving somewhat of a tough insulating coat.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608230?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608100?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608135?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>And finally, I had my first discernable motion when I took the iron strap off around floor 9. The strap shifted 1/8" to port, indicating some imbalence in the bracing.</p>
<p> I also made my first bottom frame member scarf cut today. I have tested cuts in both dimensions, and not only is this the easiest cut to make, but from my tests it is the consistently the strongest scarph. The boatnails that connected the sheathing to the frame I am scarfing were rusted but substantial, and the heads pulled through the damaged sheathing when I pryed the frame part up. Photo is underside of bottom frame in water damaged area, along with the four boat nails I pulled out of the frame with CONSIDERABLE effort.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608232?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
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<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608125?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p> Removal of Floor Timbers for First 8' of APRON (previously identified as KEELSON)tag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-06-24:2966112:Topic:54602010-06-24T23:16:19.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
First thing I did today was set up a laser reference grid to document any movement that might ocurr during the APRON (aka keelson) replacement, which necessitates removing the floor timbers above the apron to get to it.<br></br>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607980?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="540"></img></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607984?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721"></img></p>
Zip the 1/2 inch floor to apron bolts with a sawsaw. All of these bolts, at the top surface of the apron where I cut them, had 90% of their diameter left except one, which…
First thing I did today was set up a laser reference grid to document any movement that might ocurr during the APRON (aka keelson) replacement, which necessitates removing the floor timbers above the apron to get to it.<br/>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="540" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607980?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607984?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
Zip the 1/2 inch floor to apron bolts with a sawsaw. All of these bolts, at the top surface of the apron where I cut them, had 90% of their diameter left except one, which was shot.<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608085?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608061?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p>However, at frame 12, where the mast, stove, and the chainplate can all contribute to leakage, the wood of the apron around the bolt was so shot I lifted it out with no trouble.</p>
<p> After you cut the floor bolts unbolt the bottom frame member (or just "bottom")from the floor timber. Clyde has pointed out in an email that the total frame is made up of 6 pieces - the vertical "sides", the "bottoms", which run from chine to floor timber (floor) and the deck beam. Most of these 3/8" bolts had 3/16" of good steel left. They usually twisted off as I unscrewed them. My sense is that they would still hold together - hard to judge.</p>
<p> It did not take long to figure out that my Ace flat bar was exactly what this job called for. Note the minimum taper - that way you don't torque and crack the floor timber - so I ran to ace and grabbed a couple more. Put a flat bar between the two bolts at each end of the floor and give them a wack or two, making sure to open up the gaps equally so that the floor is not broken.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="540" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608069?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
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<p> So it was a good day. I removed all the floor timbers necessary to replace the first 8' of apron.</p>
<p>Most of the floor timbers will be reused after clean up. A laser check at the end of the day indicates no discernable movement. For those of you who might need a little more information, I've included a cross section diagram of the main mast step area.</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608117?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
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<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="540" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608168?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p> Rebuilding Wilson #3: The APRON/FOREFOOT INTERSECTION IS WHERE IT REALLY BEGINS!tag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-06-20:2966112:Topic:54422010-06-20T19:52:51.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
<p> The photos show the critical intersection of the apron/forefoot.The APRON) is the six layers of three quarter inch plywood on the left. It runs from here all the way to the back of the boat, forming the pivot that deals with the huge torques between the masts and the 6500 lb. lead ballast keel. The the ballast keel and the floor timbers bolt through the apron, with the keel below and the frames above.. You can see one of the countersunk holes for one of the 1/2" bolts that holds a floor…</p>
<p> The photos show the critical intersection of the apron/forefoot.The APRON) is the six layers of three quarter inch plywood on the left. It runs from here all the way to the back of the boat, forming the pivot that deals with the huge torques between the masts and the 6500 lb. lead ballast keel. The the ballast keel and the floor timbers bolt through the apron, with the keel below and the frames above.. You can see one of the countersunk holes for one of the 1/2" bolts that holds a floor timber in place. <img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607891?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607978?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p> The plan is to start at the end of the apron shown, and leaving everything else alone, replace the first 8 to 16 feet, using what is in place to shape it. (The deadwood below seems solid and will essentially be a jig as the six layers of 3/4" plywood are glued, screwed, and laminated into shape with appropriate overlaps above each joints.)</p>
<p> Why bother? The apron in this area is shot, even though it looks good in the photo, with its resin slathered outside, I can run a screw driver right in. Same with the stem. I guess that's what 20 years of neglect in FRESHWATER will do. But there is so much good boat still there, and once you really think about it, gluing and screwing together six layers of 12" wide plywood sounds reasonable, replacing all the bolts to the floor timber as you go. Certainly not a huge cost in materials. (6 or 7 sheets @ $75 per sheet, A lot of 1/2"x12" galvanized bolts, dipped in coal tar up to the threads, and the white oak for the floor timbers, which I have already gotten by hauling off the butt logs of downed urban trees and milling them myself.) STILL, and I say this with no humor, I wake up at three or four in the morning with a lot of doubts about the project. No one knows what the future will bring.</p>
<p> I will leave as much exterior in place, and support the boat shape in several different ways, until the keelson, stem assembly is back in place - then I will work the exterior. The next picture is from Dennis Gaffney's boat Le Bateau Sans Souci (truly "The Boat With No Worries") showing a top view of the apro/forefoot junction, .</p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="540" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607893?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
<p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104608021?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p> RIVETING GOOSENECK/BOOM FITTINGS: Information from Clydetag:newporterworks.ning.com,2010-05-24:2966112:Topic:53212010-05-24T12:26:41.000Zbob mitchellhttp://newporterworks.ning.com/profile/bobmitchell
<p> I was hoping to include more photos of the actual process, but that looks like a long way off and I don't want to lose info. Here is how Clyde Philipps explains this process</p>
<p> </p>
<div><font face="Calibri"> "Riveting is no big deal. Unriveting (my spelling checker doesn't like that word) can be more difficult. Let's start with that because before you need to rivet those gooseneck fittings you need to get the old rivets out. Center punch (on center!) the rivet on one…</font></div>
<p> I was hoping to include more photos of the actual process, but that looks like a long way off and I don't want to lose info. Here is how Clyde Philipps explains this process</p>
<p> </p>
<div><font face="Calibri"> "Riveting is no big deal. Unriveting (my spelling checker doesn't like that word) can be more difficult. Let's start with that because before you need to rivet those gooseneck fittings you need to get the old rivets out. Center punch (on center!) the rivet on one head and drill out the center with a small drill to a depth just beyond the gooseneck. Its diameter should be a little bigger than the flat at the "point" of the drill that will drill out the head. This process keeps the large drill centered on the rivet (hopefully) because without this pilothole that flat point will want to walk around before it starts to drill. Though I have never used it in this process, it might be good to drill that first (small) hole, then use a countersink bit to remove the head. That way the angles will most likely be the same. But the idea here is to get rid of the head. Now, with the boom resting securely with the gooseneck fitting supported on something hard and stationary (an anvil? or the flat on a bench vise behind the jaws?) and the rivet centered over a hole or between two supports spread just enough to clear the rivet as it is driven out, go at it with a punch close to the size of the rivet and a hammer. Sometimes, in the process of riveting, the rivet shaft will swell as the head is being formed, so you may find it difficult to get the rivet moving. An old shipyard saying comes into play here: "When things don't want to move, get a bigger hammer."</font></div>
<div><p style="TEXT-ALIGN: left"><img width="721" alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/104607948?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></p>
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<div><font face="Calibri">Now to the riveting (and practice is not really needed; if your first head is good, it might as well be used to hold the gooseneck on the boom). Use a rivet the size of the holes in the gooseneck. On new work (a new boom) drill the wood from both sides in to the middle (that's a fun, though scary, thing to do and very rewarding when the two holes meet on center). On old work (what you will be doing) it might be a good idea to drill out the old holes in the boom a little bigger and glue in a dowel, then start from a "new work" perspective. An old hole may be oversize and will not support the new rivet when making the heads. </font></div>
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<div><font face="Calibri">The length of the rivet should be the distance between the the outside surfaces of the gooseneck straight through the hole, plus three or four times the diameter of the rivet. Drive the rivet through the hole so that one end is one rivet diameter full of (beyond) the gooseneck (which will leave the other end two or three diameters full). Now, with a ball peen hammer (one that is one or two sizes smaller than the one you think is right; this requires a lot of hammering and the lighter the hammer the longer your strength will last, and lighter taps are better than heavy), and the long end on whatever you are using for an anvil, start peening over the edge of the rivet. The flat side of the hammer works well for this, but try both sides to see the difference and use the one you like best. This will start the head, increasing the diameter of the rivet end. Go around the rivet with light strokes to start the head. As the edge seems to go lower, leaving the center high, use the ball end to spread out the center. You just keep this up until the head gets bigger, the rivet gets shorter, and the countersink in the gooseneck fills with copper. You are finished with the first one with the head crowned full of the gooseneck. </font></div>
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<div><font face="Calibri">Now let's see what the other end looks like. Kind of messed up, wouldn't you say? That's the reason for the extra length. It takes about a full rivet diameter on each end to make the heads, but I would not like to start out with just the needed length plus two diameters. The rivet might swell inside the boom, especially if you use heavy strokes with the hammer, and that takes from the length. After both heads are made you can file down the crown flush with the gooseneck. Now you only have two more rivets to go. These will be easier because you are now an experienced riveter.</font></div>